Paul Costelloe obituary

"He learned and practised fashion internationally as a migrant in Paris, Milan and New York, and designed for such British institutions as Diana, Princess of Wales, and British Airways at its 1990s zenith. But he was rooted in the island of Ireland's terroir, appreciating its fibres, wool and, especially, linen, by fingertip feel as much as eye. Fashion only rediscovered linen after synthetics lost appeal with the oil price shock of the mid 70s."

"Costelloe, who has died aged 80, sustained his label profitably for 47 years, designing for it to the end: his 2025 collection closed the inaugural Irish fashion week in Dublin in October. Over that period of time, Ireland went from relative national poverty and isolation to a prosperous European country; in 1998, Costelloe, with habitual sass, described Irish women as ambitious mutton who wouldn't know style if it tottered up to them on 10-inch heels."

"That fabric was woven, dyed and printed in Northern Ireland. The clothes manufacturer Strelitz Ltd, of Dungannon, County Tyrone, with its associated linen brand, Moygashel, had been financially strong enough to back Costelloe's label launch in 1978, and he recalled often driving north across the border from Dublin, car crammed with boxes, learning not to cheek the checkpoint guards during the worst Troubles; both Irelands depended on export trade."

Paul Costelloe learned and practised fashion in Paris, Milan and New York and designed for British institutions including Diana, Princess of Wales, and British Airways. He remained rooted in Ireland's terroir, valuing fibres—especially linen—by fingertip feel. Linen's revival followed the mid-1970s oil-price shock and decline of synthetics, making linen an essential resource for Ireland and Costelloe. He sustained his label profitably for 47 years and continued designing until his death at 80; his 2025 collection closed Dublin's inaugural Irish fashion week. Costelloe favoured realistic daywear and tailoring, worked with Northern Irish linen manufacturers, and accepted commissions for uniforms and national teams.

Read at www.theguardian.com