"Leave it to Rick Owens to address the unsaid. Indeed, in a season of turmoil both globally and within the stormy teacup of fashion, when the default reaction of designers - and press, honestly - has been head-burying extrapolations into fantasia, Owens decided to get real, at least of a fashion. "Steely tenacity" were his words to describe clothes of recycled nylon, industrial rubber, hefty leathers, and indeed actual steel."
"But if his June men's outing, knotted to the grand opening of his great (in every word) retrospective at the Palais Galliera, felt celebratory - a coming of the faithful, joyful and triumphant - there were darker utterances with his womenswear. First of all, rather than boldly scaling a citadel like his men, they trudged down a wide, grand staircase, albeit of scaffolding, before wading into the murky shallows of the fountains out back at the Palais de Tokyo."
Owens framed a 'Temple' season with menswear and womenswear that shared a theme but diverged in tone. Menswear coincided with a retrospective at the Palais Galliera and felt celebratory, triumphant and faithful. Womenswear presented darker tableaux: models descended scaffolding stairs and waded ankle-deep into fountains at the Palais de Tokyo. Garments combined recycled nylon, industrial rubber, hefty leathers and steel, offering 'steely tenacity'. References to priestess robes and Mennonite pinafores and puffed sleeves appeared, with grand robes trailing in mud, invoking a French nostalgia for low life translated through an American sensibility.
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