36 Hours on the Amalfi Coast, Italy: Things to Do and See

"The problem is that much of the world thinks this part of the Italian coast is, too, and the congestion is increasingly horrible on the roads of the 30-mile region in summer. Luckily, May and early June are less trafficked in every sense, so one can more easily plan excursions by sea or by land. With trails and coastal routes that draw only a fraction of the high season's crowds, the land of sirens becomes particularly seductive this time of year."

"The evocative Museo della Carta, or Paper Museum, is housed in a 13th-century mill in the town of Amalfi. The picturesque Cattedrale di Sant'Andrea, near the town's harbor, dates back to 987 but has been renovated several times over the centuries. Renting a private boat is a worthwhile splurge. Lucibello is one company that sets up the vessel with a captain."

"Take a leisurely passeggiata, or stroll, through the town of Sorrento, a gateway to the Amalfi Coast. The Amalfi Coast is dotted with coves and islands like Li Galli, the purported home of the devastating sirens of Greek mythology. Valle delle Ferriere is a quiet, secluded hike that passes the ruins of paper mills on an approximately three-hour loop."

"Ndre, run by the young chef Andrea Napolitano, is an exciting addition to Sorrento and uses fresh seafood and local produce. The pizzas at Pizzeria da Franco are long, rather than round, and extra crispy, a style that comes from the nearby village of Vico Equense. La Sponda, a restaurant in the Le Sirenuse hotel, has a terrace illuminated by hundreds of candles. Music on the Rocks, a club in Positano, is open until 4 a.m. and is built into a cave overlooking the sea."

The Amalfi Coast features scenic fishing villages, Byzantine domed churches, lemon groves, and restaurants serving freshly caught fish. Summer congestion affects roads across a 30-mile region, making travel difficult during peak season. May and early June are less trafficked, allowing more comfortable planning for excursions by sea or land. Quiet trails and coastal routes draw fewer crowds. Amalfi offers the Museo della Carta in a 13th-century paper mill and the Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea near the harbor, originally dating to 987. Sorrento serves as a gateway to the coast, with nearby coves and islands such as Li Galli. Valle delle Ferriere provides a secluded three-hour loop through ruins of paper mills. Dining options include Ndre in Sorrento, Pizzeria da Franco with long extra-crispy pizzas, and candlelit terrace dining at La Sponda in the Le Sirenuse hotel.

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