Since 2013, Nancy Silverton's meat-oriented restaurant - the name translates "she (or he) who cleaves" - has caught up to its much-venerated older siblings, Pizzeria Mozza and Osteria Mozza, in terms of critical acclaim and popularity. Instead of pizza or pasta, the focus here is house-cured charcuterie; savory pies; and a series of flame-grilled mains, the preparation of which diners can watch via the open kitchen.