
"I'm the chef-owner of Chez Ma Tante, and these are my pancakes. They honestly save the restaurant and I'm very proud of them now. We cook them on a griddle, and so we kind of float them onto an ocean of clarified butter, which results in this really nice crispy rim. And then they're finished with salty butter and nice maple syrup."
"When you cook these at home, you want to make sure that you're cooking them in a pan that's really large. They're kind of like freeform the shape a little bit. And they need a little bit of room to expand. If they don't have that, I don't think that they're really capable of creating the ring. They'll get more of a domed shape. So honestly, an old cast iron is perfect. They're nice and salty, but they have multiple textures, which is nice."
At Chez Ma Tante the brunch pancakes are served in pairs, each pancake as large as a dessert plate and intentionally nearly burnt. The pancakes are cooked on a griddle and floated onto an ocean of clarified butter to produce a crisp, caramelized rim. They are finished with salty butter and maple syrup to balance savory and sweet. The batter is allowed to spread freeform, so a large pan or old cast-iron skillet is recommended to give the pancakes room to expand and form the characteristic ring. Without sufficient space the cakes dome rather than develop the desired crispy edge and texture contrasts.
Read at www.nytimes.com
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