The best restaurants in New York are not the places that cater to foodie tourists and billionaire gastronomes - not necessarily and certainly not exclusively. They're the ones that balance quality, utility, and ambience in a way that makes them places to go once or go often with an acknowledgment that sometimes it's your anniversary and you need to ball out, and sometimes it's just another Wednesday.
"Starr Restaurants' agreement with La Mercerie has reached its natural conclusion," reads a statement from the group to Eater. "We are proud of the partnership and wish the restaurant nothing but continued success. As Starr Restaurants expands its portfolio, we remain focused on creating new dining experiences and growing in dynamic markets across the country."
Having opened in 1986, it is one of the enduring icons of New York's bistros--now being mimicked by newcomers like Chez Nous, Le Veau d'Or and Chez Fifi. It has a crowd as faithful and returning as any restaurant's in New York, and the clientele dresses well (more on that later) and seems to have, in Scott Fitzgerald's words, "voices full of money." The faithful call it "Bilbo," as they once called '21' Club "the Numbers" and Le Cirque "the Circus."
Narkara's boldly flavored and unfamiliar dishes would kill in a utilitarian setting along some semi-decrepit stretch of eastern Chinatown - think Mam or Ha's - but will the city's more adventurous eaters be lured inside such a generically opulent room, on such a normie block? In the early going, the answer seems to be yes. Here is the scene at 6:30 p.m. on a Friday night, when nearly every table was taken.
Waiting in line is a young man's game. And once I was that young man (or woman or whatever). In my early twenties, I believed in the prize at the end of the line. I had to-the thought alone kept me warm as many nights I stood outside in the dead of D.C. winter in little else but a skin-tight dress. But I'm older now, my outfits actually match the weather
Endless options reign supreme - both are bolstered by huge immigrant populations that bring depth of flavor, character, and community to each neighborhood and borough. Their unique characteristics and signature dishes can both be appreciated at the same time; for food-lovers, chefs, and critics alike, both Chicago and New York should be at the top of your list of cities to explore with a healthy appetite.
"Beginning on Wednesday, June 18, head to the counter's Charles Street and Lorimer Street locations to snag a Lobster Club made with fresh lobster meat, Nueske's bacon, sliced avocado, iceberg lettuce, chopped chives and preserved lemon aioli on challah bread."
