A few obvious things stand out with lemon wine: It's not made from grapes, doesn't rely on the intricacies of terroir, and there's no need for giant oak barrels. It's therefore simple to make and readily available, with far less fuss and frenzy.
The 2020 vintage was on track to be the perfect year for the 874 wineries of Oregon's Willamette Valley until late summer, when the valley choked on smoke from record-breaking wildfires.