Eating at Gjelina in Venice in 2025 feels like stepping back in time - to Gjelina in Venice in the early 2010s. There are still locals waiting for tables on a mulchy wooden bench out front, $1,200 sweaters draped on their shoulders. Servers flit around in monochromatic oversized clothes that add color to an otherwise gray-washed backdrop. Gaping front windows pour natural light into the dining room, rendering iPhone flash irrelevant if you have the right table at the right time (before 7 p.m. in March). The food is as Gjelina as you remember, including a vibrant Thai snapper crudo that delights with its freshness and presentation.